Rat Terminology Explained
This page is really for anyone very new to rats who doesn't completely understand the terminology used. If there is anything else you are unsure of which is not explained here, please ask.
Dumbo
The term "dumbo" refers to the rats ears, specifically, their position. Dumbo ears are placed lower on the rats skull than the normal standard position of what some people refer to as "top" ears. The ears are wider and more open than standard rat ears. This can make the ears look larger, sometimes even makes the rats eyes look larger and the jaw thicker. The ears are slightly furled at the top and should stand out at a prominent angle from the head (like a rose petal shape but perfectly rounded and flat as possible).
Are There Personality Differences between Dumbo and Standard Eared Rats?
I would say yes. My dumbo ratties are extremely laid back and gentle in nature. Please understand that this is only from my personal experience with lots of dumbos (and many huge dumbo litters, yes from those same laid back parents, that is true but as soon as they are mixed with standard eared rats, theres a difference in the litter!). I am positive that dumbos do have a genetic predisposition to being laid back and calm.
Do not forget that the dumbo ear mutation comes from what as humans we would call a disorder or syndrome, much like "Treacher Collins Syndrome" or less well known "DiSyndrome". These rat and human analogues of the "dumbo" syndromes are both disorders of the first and second pharyngeal arches which grow incorrectly during embryonic development due to impaired or reduced gene production or expression. It is definitely a possibility that dumbo rats behavioural traits (calm, gentle) could be attributed to its inherited syndrome. DiSyndrome in humans (also a pharyngeal arch disorder caused by a deletion mutation) changes the shape of the affected humans face (like the dumbo rat) but also can be accompanied by cognitive characteristics or impairments (depending on the severity of the syndrome). The dumbo mutation has been selected for because the syndrome in rats makes them look very cute and luckily has no health implications for the rat (that we're aware of). So this "dumbo" gene, although recessive, is so widespread because it has been selectively bred for.
Are There Personality Differences between Dumbo and Standard Eared Rats?
I would say yes. My dumbo ratties are extremely laid back and gentle in nature. Please understand that this is only from my personal experience with lots of dumbos (and many huge dumbo litters, yes from those same laid back parents, that is true but as soon as they are mixed with standard eared rats, theres a difference in the litter!). I am positive that dumbos do have a genetic predisposition to being laid back and calm.
Do not forget that the dumbo ear mutation comes from what as humans we would call a disorder or syndrome, much like "Treacher Collins Syndrome" or less well known "DiSyndrome". These rat and human analogues of the "dumbo" syndromes are both disorders of the first and second pharyngeal arches which grow incorrectly during embryonic development due to impaired or reduced gene production or expression. It is definitely a possibility that dumbo rats behavioural traits (calm, gentle) could be attributed to its inherited syndrome. DiSyndrome in humans (also a pharyngeal arch disorder caused by a deletion mutation) changes the shape of the affected humans face (like the dumbo rat) but also can be accompanied by cognitive characteristics or impairments (depending on the severity of the syndrome). The dumbo mutation has been selected for because the syndrome in rats makes them look very cute and luckily has no health implications for the rat (that we're aware of). So this "dumbo" gene, although recessive, is so widespread because it has been selectively bred for.
Markings Explained
All the descriptions below are as per the guide standards from the National Fancy Rat Society.
Mismarked: This basically means the marking is not conforming to the NFRS guide standards. This only matters if you intend to show your rat in the NFRS exhibitions. If this is a pet rattie, it really does not matter. Even rats bred from "perfect" parents will have a high amount of "mismarked" or unstandardized colours or combinations. Showing and breeding rats to exhibition standard is hard work and is not an easy feat. It is neither simple nor quick! It takes years to understand genetics and the colour standards.
Berkshire: The rat is all one colour apart from an area on their tummy which is white (as much as possible and symetrical). Back feet white to the ankle, front feet white to the half leg. Tail to be half white. white spot on forehead desirable. White should not extend up the sides of the body.
Badger: like the Berkshire but with a head blaze! Does make the rat look like a badger! Blaze should be a white wedge shape which covers whisker bed, symmetrical, starts at nose, covers both eyes, to the forehead.
Irish: white equilateral triangle on chest. front feet white, back feet white to half. triangle to occupy all the space between front legs.
Hooded: An extremely hard marking to get right! Hood unbroken, covering head, chest, throat, shoulders. hood continuous into the saddle (spinal stripe) which should extend to the tail. Tail should be coloured as much as possible. Saddle width 1-2cm, even as possible, unbroken.
Variegated: head and shoulders coloured with white spot centrally placed on forehead. can contain a blaze. the rest of the body to be white and evenly marked with colour in patches/flecks. underside is white. Please note, a lot of breeders advertise they have variegated but infact they are just very bad hooded whose spinal saddle is not continuous to the tail.
Capped: coloured head, not to extend past the ears and to follow the jaw line, not to extend below the chin. white spot on forhead or blaze.
Bareback: exactly like a hooded rat but without the saddle or spinal stripe.
Essex: Head spot essential. this gene lightens the rats top colour. darkest area is spine, becoming less intense on sides.belly is off white as colour gradually lightens. symmetrical fading from above. feet off white. tail can be pied.
Irish: white equilateral triangle on chest. front feet white, back feet white to half. triangle to occupy all the space between front legs.
Hooded: An extremely hard marking to get right! Hood unbroken, covering head, chest, throat, shoulders. hood continuous into the saddle (spinal stripe) which should extend to the tail. Tail should be coloured as much as possible. Saddle width 1-2cm, even as possible, unbroken.
Variegated: head and shoulders coloured with white spot centrally placed on forehead. can contain a blaze. the rest of the body to be white and evenly marked with colour in patches/flecks. underside is white. Please note, a lot of breeders advertise they have variegated but infact they are just very bad hooded whose spinal saddle is not continuous to the tail.
Capped: coloured head, not to extend past the ears and to follow the jaw line, not to extend below the chin. white spot on forhead or blaze.
Bareback: exactly like a hooded rat but without the saddle or spinal stripe.
Essex: Head spot essential. this gene lightens the rats top colour. darkest area is spine, becoming less intense on sides.belly is off white as colour gradually lightens. symmetrical fading from above. feet off white. tail can be pied.
Roan Explained
A very popular bi-colour variety of ratto! These rats are born solid coloured (e.g. blue or black etc) but from 6 weeks of age (the first moult) roaning begins. This is where slowly the coloured fur comes out but is replaced by white hairs, rather than the previously coloured hairs. This creates a coat which is coloured but intermingled with white hairs. With each moult, the rat becomes lighter. Some rats end up pure white by the time they are elderly. This gene is not recessive with self colours but is recessive to agouti based colours (my own research).
For exhibition the breed standards prefer symmetrical patterns, underside completely white and the head shall have a blaze. Unmarked tail preference. Can be in the striped pattern too.
For exhibition the breed standards prefer symmetrical patterns, underside completely white and the head shall have a blaze. Unmarked tail preference. Can be in the striped pattern too.
Colours
I only breed certain colours, so I will only explain those colours I breed (as there are soooo many!). All explanations based on the NFRS breed standards. Please note; if you read websites which are produced in different countries (esp USA) they will give a much different name for colours! In the UK we base our colour standards on those stated by the National Fancy Rat Society. I will soon be adding the genetic codes for my own reference and anyother genetic geeks out there who may be interested.
Self: Any colour which is not agouti based. This means that there is one colour variety covering the rat completely (mostly, there is one colour on the hair shaft, but not always!), including legs all the way to the feet with no white bits, the underbelly. A marked variety, although its white mixed with a self colour, you would not refer to the rat as a "Russian Blue Hooded Self", for example, just a "Hooded Russian Blue" for instance.
Russian Blue
This is the colour I specialise in and base all my colours on.
Explanation: A similar blue shade seen in cats and dogs. A soft medium blue-grey with a metallic sheen. See my Instagram video (i'll try and add it below) of Eliot as this give the perfect Russian blue sheen that we mean. British Blues dont have this "sheen" as they have longer guard hairs. Ticked or heathering effect is not a fault for Russian varieties. Coat to be short and thick. A brown tinge to this colour is seen as a fault. As Russian blues get older its very common for them to have "rusting" which is brown patches. It is best to breed from the blues who suffer less from rusting.
genetics: a/a rb/rb (both recessive)
Explanation: A similar blue shade seen in cats and dogs. A soft medium blue-grey with a metallic sheen. See my Instagram video (i'll try and add it below) of Eliot as this give the perfect Russian blue sheen that we mean. British Blues dont have this "sheen" as they have longer guard hairs. Ticked or heathering effect is not a fault for Russian varieties. Coat to be short and thick. A brown tinge to this colour is seen as a fault. As Russian blues get older its very common for them to have "rusting" which is brown patches. It is best to breed from the blues who suffer less from rusting.
genetics: a/a rb/rb (both recessive)
Russian Dove
A warm creamy grey. subtle ticked effect allowed for Russian varieties. T agouti variety is a blend of warm grey ticking over a light fawn back ground. Heathering/ticking is normal for Russian varieties. Dove is a soft pinky grey. It is said to be the "lilac" colour of other animals. Comes from the Russian blue variety. Other blue based is known as "Platinum" which is also a "lilac" colour. A lilac colour is genetically a diluted chocolate. In rat colours, I dont know why but the genetics are extremely complicated (perhaps they have been over complicated as the literature doesn't seem to be written by anyone basing their findings on specific genetic testing. That said, I am still researching and learning.).
Agouti
A rich brown, evenly ticked with black guard hairs. Base fur dark grey to black. belly fur silvery grey. The best way to tell if your rat is agouti is by the change in colour on the belly! The fur is multicoloured - bands of chestnut, brown and black on a solid grey base colour with black guard hairs. Black eyes. Sometimes agouti's can have too much pigment and they are deep orange or yellow, esp on the belly where youd prefer silver. Agoutis that carry blues (like my rats) tend to be cooler overall. A rat carrying mink, pink/red eyes will have brighter tones.
Russian Silver Agouti
blend of light blue grey ticking over a warm creamy fawn ground. Under colour light silver grey to skin. Belly pale silver. No pinky tinge (this would suggest Russian Dove Agouti). Eyes black.
Merle
A relatively new variation I would love to get my hands on!!
Unique pattern of dark splash spots distributed evenly throughout the entire light background of rat. resembles a merle dog. Markings should be numerous and distinct (so they are clearly different from a mismarked rat). Can only be shown in pearl or cinnamon pearl colours.
Unique pattern of dark splash spots distributed evenly throughout the entire light background of rat. resembles a merle dog. Markings should be numerous and distinct (so they are clearly different from a mismarked rat). Can only be shown in pearl or cinnamon pearl colours.
Powder Blue
Relatively new shade. Pale dove blue shade, with pale silver base fur and underbelly colour.
Distinctly different to that of the slate colour of british blue or the deep blue of Russian blue.
Distinctly different to that of the slate colour of british blue or the deep blue of Russian blue.
Russian Blue Agouti
Dark blue ticking over a fawn ground. Belly colour silver.
Russian Dove
A warm creamy grey. It is basically a blue plus brown ratty. It is lilac based with a pink tinge. It is a Russian blue combined with chocolate or mink. The agouti version is described as a warm pinky grey ticking over a light fawn ground. Belly colour light silver.
Russian Pearl
Mid silver, with cream under colour. majority of hairs should be pearl tipped with grey, indispersed with grey hairs.
Russian Burmese
a warm, mid grey with distinctly darker points of the same shade. ticking/heathering not a fault.
Mink
(this is the british Mink) Mid-grey Brown, with a distinct blueish sheen. There are a huge range of shades of mink, they can vary from a cool dark grey to a rich brown. Their colour can either go to the roots or it may have a white undercoat. Minks are likely to rust, moult which leaves marks and swirling in different shades of mink in the body. American minks are warmer without a blue tone.
Shaded Varieties
Blue Point Siamese
Body colour beige that shades into deep blue at the back and hindquarters/bottom and on the face towards the nose; the dark areas form points. Shading darkest at nose and base of the tail. Without streaks, odd colours, white hairs, patches. It is common people to mistake a light hooded for a Siamese at first. Feet, tail, ears should preferably be as blue as possible. Eyes red or black.
Burmese
An even, rich mid-brown with darker points of the same colour. should be strongly contrasted. Devoid of dinginess, silvering or patches. Black eyes.
Blue Point Himilayan
Body colour to be white. points should be medium smokey blue. Red or Black eyes. A much lighter marked on the points than the blue point Siamese (contrasting white fur rather than cream).