Introducing Your Rattos
***Under Construction 28/05/2019***
First of all, it's important to mention that this is the way I introduce my own rats. If someone tells you another way, it doesn't mean either of us are wrong, it is just perhaps we have developed different methods from our own experiences. I have never had any problems introducing ratties to each other (I have to do it all the time as a breeder) so I stick to how I introduce them.
Although rats MUST live in groups for their own wellbeing, it is important to know this is not always possible. Sometimes elderly rats are set in their ways, could be heart broken from the loss of a partner maybe and just do not want to be with another ratty. It happens. So, personally I would take extra special care when dealing with an elderly rat, and if you can not find a rat of similar age for partnership, then I would consider not pairing the rat with another but giving them extra human interaction.
So, there are some basic rules that I am going to assume throughout these introduction instructions, which are;
First of all, it's important to mention that this is the way I introduce my own rats. If someone tells you another way, it doesn't mean either of us are wrong, it is just perhaps we have developed different methods from our own experiences. I have never had any problems introducing ratties to each other (I have to do it all the time as a breeder) so I stick to how I introduce them.
Although rats MUST live in groups for their own wellbeing, it is important to know this is not always possible. Sometimes elderly rats are set in their ways, could be heart broken from the loss of a partner maybe and just do not want to be with another ratty. It happens. So, personally I would take extra special care when dealing with an elderly rat, and if you can not find a rat of similar age for partnership, then I would consider not pairing the rat with another but giving them extra human interaction.
So, there are some basic rules that I am going to assume throughout these introduction instructions, which are;
- Only bond rats of a similar age (DO NOT try to bond 1 young rat with an old rat. It will NOT work. The young rat will want to play the older rat will not and there will be fighting).
- If you are introducing young rats to an adult/s, you really ideally want at least 2 of the young rats. This is so they can play (rough and tumble) with each other and are not trying to annoy the adult rats for their attention.
- New rats need to be in quarantine for at least 2 weeks (ideally 30 days) before being introduced to your own rats. This is to protect your own rats and also the breeders rats if you have to return them if they are poorly. Trust me... this is def worth doing.
STEP 1 - INTROS
Start intros in the morning. The rats are most likely to be sleepy and the steps could take you all day. Depending on how many rats you're introducing, if it is possible, pick them all up out their current cages and introduce them first on you. Make sure you have someone with you to help in case a fight breaks out. This step is not essential but does help. I sometimes sit on the sofa with them and do this before hand if rats are adults and completely new to each other.
STEP 2
Put all the rats into the smallest pet carrier you have. Make sure the pet carrier does not smell of any of them. Do not put anything into the carrier (apart from a water bottle if possible and a comfy blanket).
The rats should stay in this very small carrier until they are fast asleep all cuddled up. If you have worries about any of the rats (e.g. you think one is aggressive towards other rats) I would do this but put the carrier in the car and go for a drive (be mindful of the rats health first and foremost of course cars can get hot, even in England!). The stress of the journey may prevent fights and help with bonding. Again, ensure you have someone with you if fights break out, this could be stressful in the car, so bring a spare carrier.
Do not end this stage until all rats are asleep and cuddled up. This stage could take hours. Do not stop until the rats are cuddled up and asleep. Do not do this for rats under 12 weeks of age. Young rats should have food supplied constantly. Ensure water is on hand in a bottle somehow (depends on your carrier type, I use a small cat carrier so it is easy to attach a water bottle to).
The rats should stay in this very small carrier until they are fast asleep all cuddled up. If you have worries about any of the rats (e.g. you think one is aggressive towards other rats) I would do this but put the carrier in the car and go for a drive (be mindful of the rats health first and foremost of course cars can get hot, even in England!). The stress of the journey may prevent fights and help with bonding. Again, ensure you have someone with you if fights break out, this could be stressful in the car, so bring a spare carrier.
Do not end this stage until all rats are asleep and cuddled up. This stage could take hours. Do not stop until the rats are cuddled up and asleep. Do not do this for rats under 12 weeks of age. Young rats should have food supplied constantly. Ensure water is on hand in a bottle somehow (depends on your carrier type, I use a small cat carrier so it is easy to attach a water bottle to).
pics showing my boys being bonded with a younger pair. Make sure younger rats have a sibling with them when introducing to older rat/s. This ensures the younger rats have a buddy to rough and tumble with without annoying the older adult. Extra care should be given when considering getting a buddy for a lone OAP ratty. You may want the breeder/rescue centre to bond the rats for you before purchase/commitment.
STEP 3 - HAMSTER CAGE
The following steps may be a bit more difficult if you are not a breeder (or a breeder just starting out) as it requires the use of a small hamster cage and large hamster cage. I have a lot of cages, so it really isn't a problem for me. This is an important step.
For a night I will keep the ratties in a small hamster cage. If you dont have a small hamster cage, try to improvise but then failing this just skip to the next step, the "large hamster cage". Do not skip entirely the hamster cage step, it is important. Ensure there is plenty of food (lots and lots) and water points. Squabbles over food and water are therefore easily prevented.
Providing everything is ok, no injuries, no sad looking frightened ratties, the rats move to a large hamster cage (approx. 85cm length) with some interesting toys and tubes, a lovely comfy bed big enough for all the ratties. Plenty of food and water points again. I keep them in this type of cage for four days. I only move on to the next stage when I know all rats are fine and sleeping together. Only move on to the next step when you are satisfied the rats are sleeping together.
If you have a problematic, antisocial ratty then you really are best to gradually increase the sizes of the hamster cages. I have never had a problematic ratty (mine are used to constantly being shuffled around so are really social luckily) but speaking to friends and breeders, they swear by the gradual increase in cage size and slow progression to the main cage. If you're ratties are young adults and/or juveniles you shouldn't really have a problem.
For a night I will keep the ratties in a small hamster cage. If you dont have a small hamster cage, try to improvise but then failing this just skip to the next step, the "large hamster cage". Do not skip entirely the hamster cage step, it is important. Ensure there is plenty of food (lots and lots) and water points. Squabbles over food and water are therefore easily prevented.
Providing everything is ok, no injuries, no sad looking frightened ratties, the rats move to a large hamster cage (approx. 85cm length) with some interesting toys and tubes, a lovely comfy bed big enough for all the ratties. Plenty of food and water points again. I keep them in this type of cage for four days. I only move on to the next stage when I know all rats are fine and sleeping together. Only move on to the next step when you are satisfied the rats are sleeping together.
If you have a problematic, antisocial ratty then you really are best to gradually increase the sizes of the hamster cages. I have never had a problematic ratty (mine are used to constantly being shuffled around so are really social luckily) but speaking to friends and breeders, they swear by the gradual increase in cage size and slow progression to the main cage. If you're ratties are young adults and/or juveniles you shouldn't really have a problem.
STEP 5 - GRADUATION TO MAIN CAGE
Almost there, yay!!!
This part is extremely important to get right...
Before placing all your newly bonded rats into their main large cage you need to ensure the following;
Once you are thoroughly satisfied that all smells are gone and the cage is a neutral ground, you can now put all your bonded rats into the big cage ☺️
Ensure there is plenty of food stuffs and toys so the rats don’t get bored or fight over food. Don’t forget, young ratties will play fight so a bit of rough and tumble is fine as long as no injuries result.
Good luck ☺️👍
This part is extremely important to get right...
Before placing all your newly bonded rats into their main large cage you need to ensure the following;
- The cage has been fully cleaned (bars and all) to rid the cage of previous inhabitants smells. Personally, I do this by cleaning the cage with fairly liquid and the hose in the garden as usual. Then I spray the whole cage (including bars) with a bleach solution (dilution factor of 5, so that's 1 part neat bleach, 5 parts water). I leave this for half an hour (totally covered in bleach) to work then thoroughly rinse with the jet wash. You do not have to use bleach, I do because that's what we use in the lab (or alcohol but I'm not going to use my alcohol on the rats cage tbh).
- Do the same for any toys (thorough clean with your preferred solution), if toys can not be thoroughly cleaned and smells neutralised then don’t include them in the cage until rats are a fully bonded group.
Once you are thoroughly satisfied that all smells are gone and the cage is a neutral ground, you can now put all your bonded rats into the big cage ☺️
Ensure there is plenty of food stuffs and toys so the rats don’t get bored or fight over food. Don’t forget, young ratties will play fight so a bit of rough and tumble is fine as long as no injuries result.
Good luck ☺️👍